Posts mit dem Label Elizabethan werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Elizabethan werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Freitag, 19. Oktober 2007

Manchester City Galleries - Costume Collection


England 1640-60, 28 cm
Materials: leather, silk , lace, silver thread, horsehair
Kid gloves for men or possibly women, with slit cuff lined with fawn silk, linked with two bands of fawn ribbon (faded salmon pink), edged with silver gilt bobbin lace; cuff embroidered, on bright mauve-pink silk satin in a pattern of snails padded with horsehair and additional padded circular motifs in yellow and blue; surrounded with within border in padded work in silk, silver thread, coil, in satin, laid and knot stitches; edged spangles and silver bobbin lace , with spangles attached to points (left thumb missing); degraded silk embroidery shows padding underneath - very good source for process.


England, 1580 - 1620, 41cm
Buff leather gauntlet gloves. Cuffs (lined with brown and green shot silk) embroidered in formal floral design mainly in coiled metal thread over silk thread worked in satin stitch, open at outside to wrist with gold fringe round side and bottom edges, outside edges connected by three leather strips lined brown silk with looped edging of gold thread and embroidered in meandering design in laid metal thread and spangles, rest of glove, except side pieces of fingers, lined leather, side pieces of fingers shaped into point on back of hand, applied leather band with formal floral embroidery round base of thumb, rectangle beneath with similar embroidery joining band of gauntlet



England, 1640 - 1660, 12.75 inches
Material: kid leather
seamed at outer hand and round base of thumb, v-shaped sections between fingers with small gusset at base, extending half way up forearm to form gauntlet, open at seam, connected by three pieces of brown silk ribbon, gauntlet lined brown silk, forming binding at edge and showing through cut-out embroidered geometrical decoration worked in chain stitch, overcasting, buttonhole stitch and herringbone stitch, similar but without cutting out at base of fingers on back and round thumb, cut-out decoration at base of fingers on palm with needlework fillings and decoration in chain stitch and buttonhole stitch


England, 1580 - 1600, 41.5 cm
Materials: Kid leather
Fawn leather, embroidered with silk thread, metal lace and spangles. Lined with white kid. Gauntlets white satin embroidered over stiff foundation, lined with red silk, seamed at outer hand, sewn-in thumb, v-shaped sections between fingers, gauntlets, widening towards edge, trimmed at join with wrist with ruched red silk ribbon with gold lace trimming, gauntlet edge cut into long rounded tabs connected inside by red silk gussets, and edged gold lace with spangles, embroidered with shells, the pelican in her piety, and birds and flowers, with silk and metal thread worked mainly in satin stitch and laid work, the shells and the pelicans raised.


1640-1650, 11.5 inch
Materials: Leather, metal, silk, Kid
Gauntlet of beige silk, backed with white kid, and partly lined with lime-green silk twill. Embroidered in coloured silk threads, metal thread chain stitch, couched metal strip and metal sequins. Edged with looped silk and metal thread picot braid. Design consists of naturalistic birds and full blown flowers with smaller stylised fruit motifs.


Europe 1640-1660, 31.5 cm
Materials: Kid, leather, gilt, silk
White kid. Vent in outer edge of cuff. Cuffs worked with broad band of embroidery in gilt thread and silks, mostly blue, yellow and orangey-brown, showing birds and flowers. Bound and faced with orangey-brown plain weave silk and edged with a gilt fringe.
The embroidery of this glove was used as a pattern for Stella's gloves

Dienstag, 16. Oktober 2007

WiP - Melissa's Elizabethan Gloves

I'm working on these gloves for quite a while now - Started them in Summer 2005, but I was never very content how the shape of the glove turned out. My goal was to make "real" Elizabethan gloves for ladies, with the very slim, longish, pointy fingers, like all pictures and artifacts show. More than to add just a wonderful embroidered cuff in Elizabethan style to a modern leather glove...
O.k., so the first version of the leather part sucked. Didn't looked like the thing I intended at all. After having a hard time with the embroidery (o.k., needle painting is not easy at all, but please try needle painting on silk velvet!!! It's NOT funny... And it looks like... not good at all), I just gave up and stopped the project.

And I didn't like the look of the wool thread on the silk velvet - while the velvet shimmers, the embroidery looks... matte.

So I got myself a really nice looking silk thread of unspun silk (au ver a soie, soie ovale - I bought it here: http://www.tentakulum.de/ , a fabulous thread store in Frankfurt/Main, they have an online shop) . After some try outs I decided on chain stitch, which is period and looks nice (and is easy and fast to do :-)
I already started the embroidery - at the top paatern in the picture if you stare really hard, you might see a hint of green :-)
The design for the embroidery is based on a Swiss tablecloth in Zurich (1612), that I've found in the book "Mit Nadel und Faden" (great overview of embroidery andtextile arts). The design on the tablecloth is the edge surronding a religious motive, I've added the leaves and roses at the bottom.
Back to the correct pattern of the glove:
After slipping on the left glove, already finished, but not good looking, I was feeling very brave and silly, I took a scissor and started cutting. Didn't cut my fingers, took the slit-up glove as a mock up, created a new pattern and FINALLY suceeded!!! It just looks like the Original Elizabethan glove that's on display in museums!!! Yeah!!!
To show the different form of the gloves I've put my14th century glove (my first glove!!) besides it and laid it on top. You can see the difference very easy, as the fingers on the Elizabethan glove are longer and more pointy. The gussets (inserts between the fingers) are extra long and pointy, too. I will try to take some pictures later (not so easy with the leather being dark blue...)

V&A Museum, London

Pair of gloves
Date 1603-1625
Techniques: Leather and satin, embroidered with silk and metal thread, spangles and seed pearls
England
Dimensions: Height 9 cm (maximum, at lace cuffs), Width 26 cm (maximum), Length 41.5 cm (maximum)
















V&A Museum, London
Pair of gloves
Date 1590-1610
Techniques: White leather, with gauntlet tapestry woven in silk and gold; 33 warp threads per in (13 per cm)
Artist/designer: Sheldon Tapestry Workshops (probably)
Warwickshire, England (probably)
Dimensions: Length 35 cmWidth 20 cm
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Pair of glovesEnglish, 1575–1625
EnglandLeft: 0.24 m; right: 0.23 mLeather; embroidered with silk and metallic threads; metallic bobbin lace; woven silk and metallic ribbon
Classification: Costumes
Object is currently not on view
Brown leather glove with cuffs of silk, embroidered with metallic yarns on silk
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Gift of Philip Lehman in memory of his wife Carrie L. Lehman, 1938Accession number: 38.1348a-b

Montag, 15. Oktober 2007